Ah, nothing like the heat on your skin as you bask in the sunlight with your best friends. But as we enjoy nature’s bounty, it’s important to apply sunscreen daily to protect ourselves against the sun's harsh rays. 

However, with so many options on the market, selecting a sunscreen can feel overwhelming. Chemical sunscreens are the most popular choice, but some claim you should steer clear of them—that they are hormone disruptors killing the environment. Yikes. We tapped the experts and did some digging so that you have all the facts before making a decision.

Meet the Experts

• Dr. Cynthia Bailey, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, scientist, and wellness expert. She is the founder of Dr. Bailey Skin Care in California. 

• Dr. Marina Peredo, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of the New York City-based Skinfluence, where she specializes in aesthetic, laser, and surgical dermatology. 

• Dr. Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD is a top cosmetic and medical dermatologist specializing in facial rejuvenation in NYC and Newport Beach, Ca. She is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology, the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. She is a Castle + Connolly Top Doctor and Super Doctor of NY. She is also the founder of Skincare Junkie

What Is Chemical Sunscreen? 

Chemical sunscreens use chemicals to prevent UV rays from entering your skin by absorbing the rays with a chemical reaction. “Each time a UV ray causes this reaction, the molecule of chemical sunscreen is destroyed," explains Bailey. "It is one of the reasons you need to reapply sunscreen during prolonged sun exposure—basically, you run out of chemical sunscreen molecules on your skin as they block the sun’s UV rays." Mineral sunscreens do the same thing, but they use mineral particles to prevent UV rays from entering your skin with a combination of absorbing, scattering, and reflecting the rays.

“Chemical sunscreen also needs time to bind with your skin before it starts working. This is one reason why we recommend applying sunscreen 15-30 minutes before sun exposure. This time allows the product to absorb into the top layer of your skin where it will work,” says Bailey. 

Is Chemical Sunscreen Safe? 

Paredo puts it simply: “Yes, chemical sunscreens are safe," she says. "Most sunscreens that have unsafe chemicals are now banned from being used. However, she adds that there are cases where she would recommend a mineral/physica sunscreen over a chemical sunscreen. "Sometimes I prefer to recommend physical sunscreens if you have sensitive skin, allergies to chemical sunscreens, are pregnant, have melasma, and for babies and children," she says.

Some of the ingredients in chemical sunscreens can be controversial, and as a result, many people avoid using them and stick to mineral sunscreens. Because chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the skin, they tend to have a lighter formulation than physical sunscreens. However, they also tend to have more preservatives, dyes, and fragrances—which aren't inherently bad for you, but may cause irritation."Chemical sunscreens have become controversial due to concerns around environmental impact, ingredient safety, and effectiveness. While mineral sunscreens, containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, physically block harmful rays by sitting on top of the skin, chemical sunscreens (with ingredients like avobenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, and oxybenzone) absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat," explains Murphy-Rose.

Bailey, on the other hand, has a more skeptical take when it comes to chemical sunscreens. “Over the course of my career, I have seen chemical sunscreens fail to provide reliable UV protection for my patients under real use conditions," she says. "I see surprise sunburns, tanning, and darkening of freckles during their skin exams—all of which indicate DNA skin damage."

"Physical sunscreens, on the other hand, have proven much more reliable," Bailey continues. "The FDA has said that only two active sunscreen ingredients are recognized as safe and effective: These are the physical sunscreen UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. All others, meaning all chemical sunscreen UV filters, need further study. I don’t recommend chemical sunscreens. That said, they are popular and better than no sunscreen at all.” 

Murphy-Rose agrees, "While chemical sunscreens can provide adequate sun protection protecting against sunburn and skin cancer, I agree that mineral sunscreens offer superior and more reliable protection under real-world conditions. Because mineral sunscreens create a physical barrier on the skin, they begin working immediately upon application and tend to protect against a broader range of sun-related conditions, including inflammation, pigmentation, and exacerbations of skin conditions like rosacea and lupus, among others. Chemical sunscreens, in contrast, need to be absorbed into the skin before they start working (the delay is typically 10-20 minutes of which consumers are often already out in the sun) and do not protect as thoroughly."

So, while chemical sunscreens are more readily available, and often don’t leave a white cast, it’s very important to read the ingredients label. “Safe ingredients to look for in sunscreen are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide," says Peredo. "Both are safe for the environment. Specifically, zinc oxide acts as a barrier on the skin’s surface and is oftentimes gentler for those that have sensitive skin. You should avoid PABA and trolamine salicylate, two chemicals that are now rarely used in sunblock."

Ultimately, consistent use of any sunscreen is critical for effective protection, but mineral sunscreens remain my preferred recommendation due to their added benefits and immediate efficacy.

The Environmental Controversy Surrounding Chemical Sunscreen

Chemical sunscreens wash off the skin and enter waterways, which is a threat to marine life and corals. Unless explicitly stated on the label, chemical sunscreens are not coral reef-friendly. Certain places in the world, such as Australia, the Galapagos Islands, Hawaii, and now the Virgin Islands, have banned the use of chemical sunscreens because of this harmful impact.

“Some of the main sunscreen ingredients used today that are known to harm marine life include oxybenzone (benzophenone), nano-titanium dioxide and nano-zinc oxide, octinoxate, and octocrylene,” warns Bailey. 

Murphy-Rose adds, "Mineral sunscreens are widely regarded as safer for both the skin and the environment. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the only sunscreen ingredients classified by the FDA as GRASE (Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective), and they are far less likely to cause allergic reactions. They also have the advantage of being reef-safe, particularly when using non-nano mineral formulations, as chemical ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate have been linked to coral reef damage."

The Final Takeaway

There is still a lot of research to be done when it comes to whether or not chemical sunscreens are safe to use. At the end of the day, you do have to weigh whether it's best for you and whether you want to risk exposing yourself to a possible endocrine disruptor. 

Thankfully, most skincare brands today offer both chemical and mineral formulations. Although mineral sunscreens tend to feel heavier and leave a trace, they are mostly non-comedogenic and tend to be associated with less adverse skin irritations than chemical sunscreen formulations, and thus are a good choice for folks with acne-prone, oily, or sensitive skin types.